Arrivederci Roma

I'll just come out and say it... Today was a period day (in every way)!  Mediocre breakfast (but better than yesterday's 30E white bread and orange Julius).  Then a brisk one hour walk to the Vatican (Bill was an excellent navigator).  Everyone and their dog was at the Vatican today, which is what my spidey senses told me as we were planning this trip. It was nearly impossible to appreciate the wonder of the works of art we were so privileged to see.  I found myself angry at the Pope who hammered off all of the penises of the glorious statues.  I was angry at the Pope who commissioned an artist to paint robes over the nudey bits on the alter mural in the Sistine Chapel, and I was in awe of Michael Angelo for his gumption of painting the face of one of his rivals (an evil aid to the Pope of the day) on a figure in hell) and also for the nice round bum he gave to God the Father.  I so wish I could have been more present, but we were jammed in there like sardines and herded around like cattle.  My last words were, I just want to get the fuck out of here.  That's just true.  Sorry glorious masterpieces.

We might have found the blandest pizza in all of Italy at a nearby restaurant owned by a mean old guy that shouted at all of his staff and then smiled sweetly to the patrons.  I whispered to our server, "He's not very nice," and she grumbled, "He's impossible!" After lunch, we braved the Metro (it was really easy) to our neighbourhood to pick up our luggage, grab a drink (non-delicious iced coffee), and head back on the Metro to catch the train to Florence, which is where I am writing you from our second class coach as we speed past gorgeous pastures, vineyards, hills topped with old ruins or lovely villas, and charming towns.

Before I go on, more impressions of Rome:

- someone needs to speak to them about plastic -- they put two big black plastic straws in every drink, such a waste

- lots of unapologetic smokers 

- it could use a good scrub

- more scars of transnational corporations -- Foot Locker, Barbie, Samsung -- massive billboards on the sides of old ruins or gorgeous buildings, such a shame, though Rebecca, our guide from The Borghese, did tell us that often corporations help finance the restoration of some of these historical monuments for the privilege to flash their name

- so many hell gigs -- the poor bastard who has to wrap himself up in gold lame and a King Tut headpiece in the blazing heat in the hopes that a tourist will pay to have their photo taken with him or make him bow for a coin, also the guy who throws the slimed pink and green splat balls all day long hoping for someone to give him a few bucks for one, and most heartbreaking are the old beggar women supplicating themselves at our feet with a cup in hand for a coin.  There must be a market for all of this, or it wouldn't exist.  Damn the invisible hand!

Yesterday, was gorgeous.  We had nothing scheduled so just wandered the city.  As we approached the Colloseum, I said to Bill, "It still amazes me," to which he answered, "Wow, imagine that, after one day, you are still amazed by this ancient wonder!"

We walked toward the big thing with the thing on top of it (Piazza Venezia), poked around there with our jaws open at the sheer hugeness of everything.  We had the most gorgeous dining experience at Obica Mozzarella Bar (if you every visit Rome, please find this restaurant).  The taste and texture of the mozzarella was simply perfection.  We dined to the silky sounds of You Sexy Thing, which is exactly what this food was.  Bill's espresso came with a little square of chocolate covered gelato.  Whoever thought of that deserves a medal!

After lunch we weaved our way down busy cobbled streets to the Pantheon.  I have to confess, neither one of us knows why the Pantheon is interesting, I am a little ashamed to say.  We could tell it is old, but we did not wait in the long line (it smelled a little sewery) to go inside and find out why it is so great.  Maybe we will regret it when we find out!  As we were leaving the Piazza, these four young men passed by singing the most beautiful harmonies I have ever heard.  I bet they have been in choir together since they were little boys... gave me chills.

Back to the hotel for a nap and then another perfect dining experience.  Our lovely server scooped us inside as soon as she saw us while she set our table on the patio (she was hiding us from the competition next door and bribed us with complementary prosecco).  We shared a three course meal of zucchini flowers, lamb medallions with raspberry sauce, and black fettuccini with clams (the most perfect pasta I have ever tasted) accompanied by a gorgeous bottle of some silky deliciousness.

So gorgeous.  Tomorrow our Backroads Tuscan Treats tour begins from Florence, so... more deliciousness.  I only brought stretch clothes with me; I plan on saying yes to everything delicious!